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the gazette articles

Gazette Articles - August 1, 2006

GAZETTE Newspapers
By: Arthur S. Lazerow

Attic Ventilation a Must this Season

Question: Mr. White emailed a question last week asking whether or not his home should be improved with an attic fan through the roof to improve ventilation for this summer.  Unfortunately, my computer ate the email, so I was unable to respond to him directly.  However, his question is certainly timely, since an attic I inspected recently measured in excess of 140 degrees.  

Answer:  A home with a well-ventilated attic is a happy home, everything else being equal.  Understand the three functions of attic ventilation.  First, venting removes the warm, moist air that migrates from the home into the attic before it can condense on structural portions of the attic and cause rot or mold growth.  Second, the movement of fresh air into the attic forces the hot stale air out of the attic, lowering attic temperatures which otherwise would radiate through the attic insulation and heat the living spaces below.  And finally, the introduction of freezing cold air into the attic during winter months prevents ice dams from forming in gutters and water spilling into living spaces.

What is considered a well-vented attic?  Mechanical engineers base their calculations on the number of square feet of attic area.  A home 30 feet deep by forty feet wide contains 1200 square feet of attic surface.  If there is no vapor barrier in the attic facing the living space, the ratio is one square foot of open ventilation for every 150 sq. ft. of attic surface.  With a vapor barrier, such as paper-faced insulation with the insulation facing towards the living space, the ratio is one square foot for every 300 sq. ft. of attic.   The 1200 sq. ft. home with blown-in insulation but no vapor barrier needs 8 square feet of ventilation open to the exterior.

This assumes the home has a gable roof.  Homes with flat roofs or cathedral ceilings need special consideration and are more difficult to ventilate.

Half of the ventilation should be high, such as at the ridge, and half should be low and on opposite sides of the home, such as front and rear soffit vents.  If the home has gable end louvers, there should be one on each gable end.  In both cases, high/low or gable ends, regardless of which direction the wind is blowing, the side facing the direction of the wind will become the active side.  This, in combination with convection currents caused by heating of the cooler air, is the process that moves air through and out of the attic.

As a generalization, most houses have inadequate ventilation.  It is common during the summer for the attic to be 30 to 40 degrees warmer than the outside temperature.  All this heat increases the heat load that the air conditioning system must handle, putting added strain on the system and costing more money to maintain a comfortable temperature.

A power vent installed thru the roof, also known as an attic fan, significantly increases the amount of fresh air moving through the attic.  Typically, the attic vent fan is installed for aesthetic reasons on the rear portion of the home’s roof somewhere near the middle of the home.  This location permits the fan to draw in fresh air from both gable louvers or from the soffit vents located below on the perimeter of the attic.

As a home inspector working in attics every work day, I have observed a marked difference between homes with and without power venting.  A 100-degree attic may sound hot, but compare that to 140 degrees.  R-25 rated insulation (six to eight inches deep) or R-30 insulation (ten to twelve inches deep), regardless of whether blown or batts, can handle 100-degree attic temperature.  130-140 degree heated attic air will filter through any shallow area of insulation, through cracks and through the attic scuttle door and seriously impact the air conditioning system.

During winter months with a snow load on the roof, the power vent helps to control ice dams.  Ice dams occur when the heated attic space causes the underside of the snow to melt at night.  This water drips down the roof surface and lands in the gutter, which is exposed to the freezing night temperatures.

This water freezes and over time, ice builds up until the weight brings down the gutter or water melts and runs into the home.  Having the power vent in operation with snow on the roof, there is reduced heat build up in the attic, which lessens the opportunity for nighttime melting.

In answer to Mr. White’s question, all good things come to those who improve their home’s attic ventilation.  Operating costs decline, the home becomes more comfortable during the hottest summer days, your children will be smarter and better looking, and you may even win the lottery.  That’s a promise.  As they say in sports, just do it!

Have a question relating to a housing or environmental issue?  To contact Mr. Lazerow, click on “Contact Us” at Albaninspect.com.  Mention “Gazette Newspapers” in your question.  Every question will be answered and some will be included in this column.

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